Rabbit Breeding

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Show vs Pet:

As a show breeder before I breed I always think before breeding, I think; How will this pairing help my herd? Can this paring improve on type according to the ARBA SOP? What are the possible positive outcomes and what are the possible negative ones? For proven rabbits I may ask myself, how has this pairing helped my herd in the past or what have they produced I may need now??In my opinion there is no need to breed a rabbit unless you have a good reason for the show standards, I read an article on LOTS OF LOPS RABBITRY - Home about why you shouldn't breed pet quality rabbits, she had some great reasonings on there I 100% agree with, she pointed out that the standard of perfection isn't just rules for a beauty contest, she said lots of the faults are linked with the health and longevity of the rabbit. She stated "Pinched Hindquarters are a fault in all breeds, as does' with pinched hindquarters have difficulty giving birth and are at high risk of related complications. A narrow chest is linked with weakness, as is a weak shoulder or chopped hindquarters. Having the correct head structure for the breed is also essential as it helps prevent malocclusion. You don't want to breed a buck with one descended testicle, or a split penis. You want a rabbit that keeps condition well and has a dense, lush, insulating coat. You want an animal with good muscling, not a weak animal with poor muscling. These are just a few of countless examples, I could go on all day." She also explained how each standard defines each breed! Lots of Lops also remarked on how there is a high demand for show quality rabbits because the pet marked is flooded, when you breed better quality rabbits you open up to a larger market and it really is easier. Plus in my mind owning a showstopper that rocks the show world is a pretty good feeling! Here is the link for the article by Lots of Lops Rabbitry.

Why You Shouldn't Breed Pet Quality Rabbits - LOTS OF LOPS RABBITRY

Steps for breeding:

First of all make sure you doe is 6-8 months old (for small/medium breeds) and 8-10 months old (for larger breeds), also make sure your buck is 4-6 months old (For small breeds) and 6-8 months old (for medium/large breeds) any age for bucks testicles need to be fully descended and for sure ready to breed.

After this is done complete the following steps:

1) Check doe's vent, make sure her vent is dark pink/red and ready to breed. Even if it isn't try to breed, if she doesn't lift and you are unable to pin her down mix ACV (apple cider vinegar) in her water for 1-2 weeks and try again, if that STILL doesn't work put her on a hay fast for 1-2 weeks and try 1 more time otherwise wait a week at a time for her vent to be dark pink/red and try again.

2) Put your doe in the bucks cage.

3) Try to achieve 3-6 successful fall offs (Buck will grunt and vigorously fall off of the doe). MAKE SURE SHE IS LIFTING!!

4) Day 14-20 palpate for babies.

5) Day 28-31 (sometimes as late as day 40) babies arrive (if pregnant)!

Birth & After:

After kits are born check on then 1x a day everyday for full bellies and to make sure none are dead, if any are underfed you can flip mom over and use her as a bottle for them to nurse, just make sure none fall off of her while feeding! At 2 weeks old (day 14) wipe eyes open with a warm damp washcloth to prevent nest box eye, also at this age the nest box needs cleaning out, as far as cleaning out the nest box do it as needed until weaning/going to homes. For smaller-medium breeds rabbits should wean at 6 weeks and go to new homes at 8 or wean at 8 weeks and go to new homes at 10 weeks, for giant breeds weaning is at 10 weeks and go to new homes at 12 weeks, the larger breeds take longer to mature than smaller/medium breeds.

Peanuts and DOA are issues with breeding, Peanuts are double dwarf gene that can pop up if both parents are true dwarves (have the dwarf gene), it is all part of breeding dwarf breeds and it happens! DOA can happen to any rabbit, whether it was from overgrowing the kit (un-avoidable), pinched/narrow HQ, or maybe the buck was too big for the doe. To help a doe birth you can give her a tums on day 33-35 to make sure all goes smoothly.

When rehoming you want to ask plenty of questions to ensure the rabbits are going to good homes, these are the questions I ask:

1) Are you looking for a buck or doe?

2) Any color preferences?

3) How soon do you need your rabbit(s)?

4) What intentions do you have for the rabbit(s) (Pet, Breeding, Show)? If breeding pet or show breeding?

(I do not sell to pet breeders)

5) Have you ever owned rabbits before?

6) Do you have and indoor or outdoor setup?

7) What will your set up consist of?

8) Do you participate in 4H?

(I give 4H discounts)

9) Have you agreed to our sales policy?

While some of those questions ^^ had no affect to the way the rabbit would live it also helped me sort out the best rabbit for them and discounts. I also as my mentor and other breeding friends if they have had experience with this person. Even if they say they show breed I still do a little digging, I have sold to "show" breeders just to regret it and find out they are really pet breeders that don't treat their rabbits properly.

FINDING YOUR BREED:

There are 50 ARBA recognized rabbit breeds to choose from and more on their way to becoming recognized! So ask yourself these questions:

1) Do I want a small breed or large breed, and can I handle a large breed?

2) Do I want more of a layed-back breed or a goofy breed?

3) Can I handle a high maintenance breed like fluffy breeds?

4) What breed do I like?

Before making a commitment to any breed DO YOUR RESEARCH and talk to other show breeders, make sure this breed is a good for you, your set up, and most importantly your budget lol! Each breed is special and unique so I recommend getting an ARBA SOP!

SET UP FOR BREEDING:

1)Depending on the size of your herd you will need grow out cages, I either have 1 for each sex to hold 2 litters (As in all girls from 2 litters in one and all boys from 2 litters in the other) or 1 for each sex to hold 1 litter. So if I have..4 girls I will either have 8 grow out cages or 4 grow out cages.

2) Extra cages for any keepers, if you decide to keep any but not replace any other bunnies YOU WILL NEED EXTRA CAGES, try to keep 2-4 extra cages for this reason. However it is always good to look at your herd and replace broodier bunnies with nicer ones to keep those lines going, in most herds when mom outproduces herself with a better kit she gets the boot and kit stays.

3) Extra supplies, with grow outs and extra keepers your gonna need em, I try keep 2-4 extra of everything.

4) Pedigree program! I use Ped2Web and Bunny Trails software but lots of people also recommend Evans software and Who's Due?

5) Tattoo Pen, not everyone tattoos their bunnies but to register them or show them they need a tattoo, I tattoo all my bunnies and I 100% recommend the inkanator, better than anything else I have ever seen recommended to me by countless people!

6) Grooming tools, I have a kit with 1 dry cleaning brush (to help brush out loose fur), 1 scrubble brush (to break free loose fur) nail clippers, baby wipes (to help remove urine stains), and hand sanitizer for myself.

7) Grooming stand, these aren't needed but I recommend one! I got mine from KW cages and it has been pretty good! It is useful for grooming, storing things (mainly for grooming but also my harnesses), it is also useful for posing and showmanship practice, and great for taking posed photos!

8) For fun rabbitry decor, I have a few cute decorations and ones with my rabbitry name on them for taking photos and making it more appealing to people, it isn't needed but still super fun to have!

I think I just about covered everything. I will add extras below and add more as I find more tips!

Yours Truly,

Annalise

EXTRAS:

1) You can rebreed a doe when her previous litter is 10-12 weeks old if they are in good condition (For small/medium breeds)

and 14-16 weeks old for large breeds.

2) Don't breed rabbits that have been sick while immune systems were developing.

3) Some rabbits don't take after 4-6 fall offs, if they don't try 2 more times and retire if you get nothing, likely they are sterile or just aren't good breeding does. (Added: 03/17/2022)